The Great Greyhound FAQ

Greyhounds generally make excellent house dogs thanks to their calm nature and love of sleep. Despite their upbringing in racing kennels, they can quickly adapt to home life, and will quickly steal your heart (and your sofa). Every greyhound is different, but they are typically low maintenance pets, and there are so many waiting to be rehomed in the UK that you are sure to find one that fits your lifestyle.

Greyhounds typically make excellent beginner pets for people who are new to dog ownership. Adopting an ex-racer often means you get to skip the challenging greyhound puppy phase, as the majority are retired at 2 years or older. Winston was our first dog, and for the most part he has been a dream. He came to us at nearly 5 years’ old and we didn’t have to deal with teething or puberty or puppy hyperactivity.

It’s worth acknowledging that ex-racing greyhounds can come with their own unique challenges due to their unusual upbringing (relative to other dog breeds). However, they are highly adaptable to home life and you will typically have the support of your rescue/adoption centre to guide you through any hiccups.

There is genuinely no “right” age to adopt a greyhound. When we began looking to rescue, we were set on finding a greyhound that was younger (2-3 years’ old) for a few reasons:

• We were worried that an older dog would have more health issues
• We were worried that an older dog might have more behavioural issues that would be harder to train out
• With it being our first dog, we selfishly wanted a younger pup who would therefore be around for longer

I believe a lot of people have similar concerns. However, having now been through the process, I don’t believe age will be a big factor next time we adopt. Winston was nearly 5 when he came to us, and it meant that he was pretty easygoing and low maintenance, rather than super high energy. Having spoken to other greyhound owners, the common sentiment is that it’s never too late for adoption.

In short: factors such as personality should take precedence over age when looking to adopt a greyhound. Don’t rule out the golden oldies!

You’re really going to make us answer that question? Okay, in the interest of transparency: greyhounds can come with a few unique challenges, such as:

• Prey drive: They are bred to chase small furry things, and ex-racers in particular have had this instinct drilled into them. This can be managed, but it isn’t something you can “train out”. For some greyhounds, this means never being let off-lead in public places. It also means that some greyhounds are not suited to living with cats or small dogs.
• Low stamina: If you’re looking for a dog to take on full day hikes or long distance runs, this probably isn’t the breed for you. There are exceptions, though.
• Lack of socialisation in ex-racers: There are actually a lot of exceptions to this one, as plenty of greyhounds are very happy in busy environments, love meeting new people and get along great with children and other dog breeds. However, some greyhounds may take a while to feel comfortable after moving into your home, particularly if you live in a very busy urban environment.
• Fragile: Their paper thin skin, gangly limbs and ability to run at high speeds can be a recipe for disaster. Be prepared to find random cuts after enthusiastic play sessions, and make sure to use muzzles if they play with nippy dogs (an excited nip can easily turn into a nasty skin tear).
• Sofa hogs: They will steal your sofa. Possibly your bed, too.

Naturally, we’re biased, but ask any greyhound owner and they’ll tell you that the pros far outweigh the cons.

Both male and female greyhounds can make great companions. Individual personality should definitely take precedence over sex when choosing a dog.

You will typically see the common stereotypes:

• Males are goofier and clingier
• Females are more aloof, independent and “bossy”

However, spend any time in the greyhound community and you’ll see plenty of greyhounds who go against the grain. Winston is a male dog but I wouldn’t describe him as particularly clingy or cuddly - in fact he’s about as independent as they come.

In other words, your mileage may vary. And if you’re struggling to decide, why not get one of each…?

Greyhounds can make excellent family dogs, despite being a large breed. Ex-racers typically want nothing more than to spend most of the day curled up on the sofa napping, making them a great addition to many households.

However, not every greyhound will be a good fit for a home with young children. Greyhounds are typically used to having their own space, being undisturbed while sleeping, and in many cases will not be used to noisy kids. Greyhound rescues and rehoming centres should take time to ensure you are matched with a greyhound who is a good fit for your home, and if you have children, make sure they know how to be gentle and respectful with dogs.

Some greyhounds can live with cats. You may need to search a little harder to find one, but they do exist.

If you want your greyhound to live with a cat, careful introductions and ongoing supervision are crucial. Your adoption centre should walk you through the process and be on hand to support with any issues that may arise.

Given they spend most of their time lounging around on the sofa or in their bed, greyhounds can absolutely live in homes without a garden. While gardens can be convenient for quick toilet breaks and gentle exercise, they’re not a must-have. If you live in a home without a garden and you’re thinking of adopting a greyhound, just consider:

• What is your plan for toilet training? Especially in the early days when you will likely need to offer them frequent toilet breaks.
• Do you have green spaces nearby where you can take them for regular walks?
• Are there secure, enclosed fields where you can take them for off-lead runs? (This isn’t necessary for all greyhounds, but some will definitely appreciate it).

Most greyhounds will happily spend most of their time indoors. Just make sure you have a solid routine that will meet your hound’s needs.

Despite their size, greyhounds can absolutely thrive in flats. You’ll be surprised how small they can curl up!

If you live in a flat - especially upper floor - and you’re thinking of adopting a greyhound, just consider:

• What is your plan for toilet training? Is there a communal garden where you can take them for toilet breaks?
• Are you prepared to train your greyhound to get up and down stairs? Many greyhounds have never experienced stairs before, and some adapt faster than others.
• Do you have green spaces nearby where you can take them for regular walks?
• Are you allowed to have a pet in your flat?

A good adoption centre or rescue will check out your living space and match you with a greyhound that is suited to living there.

When we were looking for a greyhound to adopt, we heard the phrase “buy one get one free” more than once!

On a serious note, many greyhound owners will tell you that two can actually be easier than one. They can keep each other company, play together and bring each other confidence on walks.

If you’re transitioning from one greyhound to two, you may find that your first greyhound sets a good example for your second to follow, making the settling in period smoother.

However, there are some practical considerations to be aware of:

• Costs will double: To put it bluntly, you should only adopt a second greyhound if you can afford it. Twice the food, twice the insurance policies, higher pet-sitting fees, more beds…etc, etc.
• Transport: You need a larger vehicle to transport more than one dog at a time. Compatibility: Greyhounds are typically used to other greyhounds, but you still need to find a good match. You should also be prepared that some greyhounds actually prefer being a solo dog.
• Walking: Handling more than one greyhound while out and about can be challenging - especially if they spot a squirrel!
• Training and supervision: Unless they’re a bonded pair, it will take time for two greyhounds to build a relationship. This means careful supervision during the early days to prevent any spats. Giving them each their own space is also highly recommended.

There is a great guide on becoming a multi-dog household here

Unfortunately, the number of greyhounds being retired from racing vastly outpaces the amount of homes and rescue space available. There are thousands of greyhounds retired annually in the UK, with some sources indicating as many as 5,000 in need of rehoming each year.

This really deserves its own post, which will come at some point. But the short answer is that the current racing industry perpetuates an unsustainable backlog of greyhounds in need of homes. For this reason, greyhounds are frequently called out as one of the most common dog breeds found in UK rescues.

Greyhounds are often referred to as one of the quietest dog breeds, however it does depend on the individual dog. Some greyhounds will rarely bark, but they might vocalise in other ways - for example whining or “rooing” when they want something! Some greyhounds might bark but only in very specific situations, such as during play or when they want something (“demand barking”).

Our greyhound, Winston, didn’t make a sound for a few months after coming home with us. It actually made me jump out of my skin the first time that he barked, as it was so loud! Since then, his barking behaviour has evolved a lot: he went through a phase of demand barking quite often (normally when he was getting impatient for his food), but this has tapered off over time, as he’s learned it doesn’t get him his way. Nowadays he very rarely barks.

Some greyhounds are very cuddly and affectionate, while others will remain aloof even after years of living with you. Some greyhounds may never cuddle but will show affection through the famous “greyhound lean” - where they press their bodies against you.

When you first adopt a greyhound, it’s highly recommended to give them space and let them come to you. Many greyhounds will not be used to lots of affection and may feel overwhelmed by lots of touch, especially during the early days when everything is so new. Practice “consent testing” - giving short strokes, pausing, and gauging their reaction - and over time you will learn what they like and don’t like, and how to tell when they want the affection to stop or continue.

Most greyhounds require just a few short walks a day, making them the perfect dog for anyone with a similarly laidback lifestyle. Some greyhounds are capable of walking long distances, but this isn’t super common, especially in the early days of adoption.

While greyhounds are known for their ability to run fast, they aren’t built for endurance. They run in very short bursts, with a greyhound race typically being just 30 seconds, and casual zoomies lasting a similar amount of time. They expend a lot of energy during these short bursts of sprinting, following which they will happily sleep for hours!

We use a Tractive collar which provides information about how much our greyhound sleeps each day. According to the data, he averages about 20 hours a day!

Greyhounds aren’t known for being guard dogs. They bond deeply but are not typically aggressive or protective.

We always joke that Winston would be useless if someone broke into our house; if anything he’d try to make friends with them.

Relative to many dog breeds, greyhounds do not shed much. They have very short coats and as such don’t have a ton of fur to shed.

However, don’t be fooled: there will be phases where you find more hair knocking around! When you first adopt a greyhound, you will likely experience “kennel coat”, which can be quite smelly and is shed gradually over the first few months of living at home. Furthermore, you may see an uptick in shedding during seasonal changes as temperatures fluctuate.

Regular brushing with a gentle silicon brush is highly recommended to keep any shedding at bay!

Greyhounds are known for being relatively low maintenance, in comparison to many other dog breeds. This is for a few key reasons:

• They don’t require much in the way of grooming, aside from regular brushing, nail clipping, teeth brushing and the odd bath
• They don’t need a lot of exercise, typically happy with a few short walks per day
• They often enjoy a good puzzle or toy but don’t need the mental stimulation of many other working dog breeds

It’s worth keeping in mind that they can have a few quirks, including high prey drive and a predisposition to dental issues. An adopted ex-racer may also take a few weeks or months to settle into home life, after years of living in kennels. However, on the whole they are not a “high maintenance” breed.

As with any dog, a greyhound may form a particular attachment to one specific person, otherwise known as the “favourite human”. This typically happens if one person is responsible for looking after the greyhound, especially in the early days of adoption. Greyhounds treasure their routines, and will bond most deeply with the person who feeds, walks and plays with them on a daily basis.

For this reason, it’s a great idea to try and split caregiving responsibilities as equally as possible, if you adopt as a couple. Greyhounds are perfectly capable of bonding to more than one person, but you’ve got to earn it!

Every greyhound is different, and as such will have different fears. They are often referred to as a “sensitive” breed, but this doesn’t mean they are anxious or scared of lots of things. Despite their unusual upbringing in kennels, many greyhounds are highly adaptable and quickly settle into home life.

Some common sources of anxiety for greyhounds in the early days of option can include:

• Loud noises: Fireworks, thunder, noisy traffic, screaming children, yappy dogs.
• Slippery floors: Greyhounds are not used to laminate (or similar flooring). Consider laying down runners to prevent any slips when they first come home.
• Children: Yes, it sounds funny, but some greyhounds may struggle with the loud screeching and erratic movements of young children. Can’t really blame them.

However, the truth is that all greyhounds are different. We found that Winston was particularly scared of the rubbish lorry in the early days, and on one occasion was totally spooked by a stranger in a cap (despite normally loving all people). If your greyhound seems fearful, it’s important to manage it calmly and patiently.

Greyhounds are often referred to as a calm breed of dog, due to their laidback nature and low energy. In the home, they love nothing more than lounging around for the majority of the day, and many are content with a few short walks per day. However, they are still prone to experiencing bursts of energy throughout the day, resulting in some impressively high speed zoomies.

Preferences on where to be stroked will vary from greyhound to greyhound. For some it’s ear scratches, for some it’s belly rubs, for others it’s the chest. They’re all different!

One important thing to keep in mind: a lot of racing greyhounds will experience injuries - ranging from minor to major - during their time on the tracks. This means they may come with sore spots and aches and pains that you’re unaware of. They may also present with dental issues if their teeth have been neglected during their time in kennels. When you first adopt, it’s important to pay close attention to their body language when you are interacting with them, and take note of any areas that seem particularly sensitive. Practice “consent testing” - giving short strokes, pausing, and gauging their reaction - and over time you will learn what they like and don’t like, and how to tell when they want the affection to stop or continue.

Greyhounds are often mistaken as being ignorant or slow to learn, but actually they can be very clever. They are bred to be highly independent, which can lead to situations where they perfectly understand what you want them to do - they just aren’t willing to do it without good reason!

As a result, people will sometimes write off greyhounds as “difficult to train”. In actual fact, they’re highly capable of learning new commands. It’s just a case of providing the right motivation.

Example: we accidentally trained Winston to go to his bed, by giving him a dried chicken foot every day at lunchtime, when he was already lying on his bed. After just a few days, he was running to his bed and lying down as soon as we had the chicken foot in hand. You could potentially argue that he trained us…

It’s very rare for greyhounds to be aggressive. However, in the early days of adoption, don’t be surprised if you get a few growls - your greyhound is figuring out their place in their new world and growling is a way of communicating discomfort. They’re not saying “I want to hurt you”, they’re saying “You’re doing something I don’t like and I want you to stop”. It’s really important to understand canine body language and stress signals so that growling doesn’t escalate to snapping or even biting.

Greyhounds can also experience sleep startle, which means they may growl or snap when “startled” awake, but this is easily avoidable - let sleeping dogs lie!

It’s also important to understand exactly what we mean by “aggressive” when it comes to greyhounds. Aggression typically comes about when the hound is fearful, startled, in pain, or guarding something. It’s not malicious and the dog does not want to hurt you - they’re just trying to defend themselves, or something which is valuable to them. Once you learn what the triggers are, you can work on these.

Greyhounds can also have high prey drive, however this is different to aggression. Prey drive is a natural, genetically hardwired instinct to chase and capture prey.

Every greyhound says “I love you” in their own way! They might lean against you, nuzzle up to you on the sofa, or simply stare at you from across the room with big soft eyes.

Remember that greyhound affection can be subtle, take time to build, and some dogs will never be “cuddly”. If they’re relaxed and content in your company, that’s the sign of a loving relationship.

You’ll see the 3-3-3 rule cited constantly in the rescue dog community. In short, it means:

• 3 days to decompress
• 3 weeks to learn the routine
• 3 months to feel secure

However, it is completely normal for some hounds to take longer to adjust. For our first greyhound, it was more like 3-4-6! He settled into home life remarkably quickly, but it was at least 6 months before we felt like we had actually “bonded”. It was nearly a year before he got comfortable on walks, and even now he still has some struggles. And while he started playing with toys early on, he was uninterested in most of them or simply hoarded them in his bed, whereas now he loves to play with us in the garden with every toy we bring him.

All this to say: every hound’s time line for settling in is different. Don’t feel down if yours doesn’t stick to the 3-3-3 rule - most don’t!

Your greyhound might pee in the house, especially when you go out, for a few reasons:

• Anxiety at being left alone: Your greyhound may not be used to being alone, especially after living in kennels. In the first few weeks following adoption, it’s important to gauge their reaction to being left alone - cameras are helpful for this - and try not to push them past their limits before they’re ready. This can cause distress and lead to accidents inside.
• Still understanding house training: Remember that most ex-racing greyhounds have not lived in a house before, therefore you have to house train them in the same way as puppies. Take them out regularly, give lots of praise when they toilet outside, and have patience in the early days! Most will learn quickly with a consistent routine; ours has only ever had a handful of accidents.
• A medical issue: Urinary infections, incontinence and old age are a few common causes. If they’ve only just started peeing inside after previously not having accidents, speak to your vet.

The most important thing is to never get angry or punish your greyhound if they pee inside. If they’re stressed, it will just make things worse.

If your greyhound is growling at you, they’re saying “You’re doing something I don’t like and I want you to stop”. They don’t want to hurt you; they’re simply communicating and giving a very clear warning.

Growling is normally preceded by other stress signals such as: lip licking, yawning, whale eye and stiff body language. These signals can be subtle, but it’s important to recognise them, so you can clock any discomfort before it escalates.

To understand why they are uncomfortable and growling, ask the following:

• What happened immediately before the growl?
• Is it possible the hound was protecting something, like food, a toy, a bed or another item?
• Were you invading the hound’s space? Is it possible they felt trapped or unable to move away?
• Did you surprise the hound while they were sleeping or resting?
• Were you touching or moving the hound? Is it possible they were in pain?
• Has this happened before, or is it a new behaviour?

Ultimately there are lots of reasons a greyhound might growl. It’s not necessarily anything to be concerned about, if you recognise the reason and put measures in place to ensure they are comfortable moving forwards.

Whether or not you let your greyhound sleep in your bed is a highly personal question. You might find that there is quite a lot of debate about this across the internet!

Many adoption centres and behaviourists will advise that you exercise caution in the early days. Until you know your hound well, it is not safe to let them sleep in the bed with you. Your hound might have sleep startle or resource guarding tendencies, in which case sharing a bed can be a recipe for disaster!

Once your greyhound is settled, you might choose to start letting them sleep in your bed, but don’t feel obliged to do this. No greyhound “needs” it. If they struggle to sleep alone, consider the following alternatives:

• Give them a comfy bed in your room, so they can be nearby.
• Give them a comfy bed just outside your room, with a baby gate for separation - so they can see you nearby but you both still have your own space.

Some greyhounds are happy to be crated; others will not enjoy it. It very much depends on the individual dog.

Some greyhounds enjoy having a crate as a safe space or “den”, giving them a quiet place to retreat to if they are feeling overwhelmed or simply want some undisturbed rest. Others may dislike the confinement and would prefer a more open space. You should never force your greyhound into a crate if they are uncomfortable with it.

Keep in mind that greyhounds are large dogs, therefore you’ll need a big crate to accommodate - they should have plenty of room to stand up, move around and stretch out comfortably.

Subtle signs of anxiety in greyhounds include lip licking, yawning, a tucked tail, stiff body language and whale eye. More obvious signs of anxiety include panting, pacing, trembling, howling and toileting inside.

Anxiety may also manifest in unexpected ways, such as digestive issues and destructive behaviours.

If your greyhound is demonstrating unusual behaviours and you’re unsure if the cause is anxiety, it’s highly recommended to consult a behaviourist. They’ll ask lots of questions about your hound’s behaviour, their routine, their medical history and more, to figure out the underlying cause.

If your greyhound is nervous, the first step is to understand why they are nervous. This will help to determine the solution. For example, the steps you take to calm a greyhound who is nervous after hearing you switch the hoover on, will be different to the steps you take for a greyhound experiencing separation anxiety.

Steps you can take for temporary, situational anxiety may include:

• Create space between your greyhound and the thing which is causing them to be nervous
• Use high value treats, chews or toys to distract
• Comfort them with gentle touch
• Stay calm yourself; don’t make a big fuss

For chronic, severe nervousness, it’s highly recommended to consult a behaviourist. They’ll ask lots of questions about your hound’s behaviour, their routine, their medical history and more, to figure out the underlying cause.

Ex-racing greyhounds will often never have seen stairs before due to living in kennels all their lives. On top of this, their long, awkwardly shaped bodies can make it difficult to manoeuvre stairs (especially on the way down).

It’s absolutely possible to train greyhounds to go up and down stairs, but it may take some time and patience (and lots of treats).

Greyhounds need surprisingly little space! Despite being classed as a large dog breed, they fold up small when they want to, and spend most of their time lounging around. As long as they have a comfy, quiet place to relax, greyhounds are happy in most spaces - from houses to flats.

To help greyhounds settle into their new home, it’s ideal to let them choose where they sleep - to an extent. This doesn’t mean let them straight in your bed or on the sofa! But if they want you to be nearby, consider sleeping in the same room. If they’re uncomfortable in a crate, don’t force them to sleep in a crate. Giving them their own comfy bed in a quiet, low foot traffic place is highly recommended.

While it’s ideal to start as you mean to go on, during the very early days, your hound may be stressed. Don’t exacerbate the stress by leaving them to “cry it out” or confining them to a space they’re not comfortable in. Just because you spend the first few days or even weeks sleeping downstairs doesn’t mean you will always need to do this; once they are more settled, you can build up to them sleeping alone or even in a crate if this is necessary.

There is no official data around how many greyhounds have sleep startle. Many greyhound rescues and owners will tell you that it is “common”, however exactly how common is not known.

Interestingly, the greyhound boarders we’ve used told us that sleep startle is extremely uncommon in the hounds they’ve had to stay. So perhaps it’s fair to say that sleep startle is common in newly adopted hounds, but relatively uncommon in greyhounds who have settled into home life.

The most important thing to realise is that sleep startle is extremely manageable and should not typically put off potential adopters. Respect your hound’s space while they are sleeping, learn to wake them safely, and you should have zero issues.

Many greyhounds can be left alone, some for hours at a time. You may need to build up to this, as newly adopted greyhounds coming from kennels are not used to being alone, and may become distressed at suddenly being all alone in a new place. But once your hound is settled, they can typically be treated like any other dog, in that it is possible to gradually build up their time spent alone.

Some greyhounds may never be completely comfortable with being left for long periods. In these cases, consider using a dogsitter, dog walkers or having someone check in during the day, if you need to be away from home.

To avoid separation anxiety in greyhounds, establish a predictable routine and gradually build up their time alone. The most important thing is not to suddenly jump to leaving them alone for hours at a time during the critical settling in period. Here are some other tips:

• Install cameras: These allow you to monitor your greyhound’s behaviour after you leave, so you know if they are stressed or not, and what their limits are.
• Tire them out: Ensure they’ve exercised or had a good play session before you leave.
• Leave them with something good: Give them a frozen treat or long-lasting chew just before you go, so they a) have a distraction while you’re out and b) - associate you leaving with something positive happening!
• Use background noise: Leaving the TV or radio on can provide a comforting background hum.
• Calm greetings: While it’s so tempting to return your greyhound’s enthusiasm when you get home, it’s actually best to ignore them until they’ve calmed down. You want your return to be as boring as possible, rather than a huge exciting event.
• Desensitise them to leaving cues: Even when you’re not going out, randomly pick up your keys, open the front door, or put your shoes on. Over time, your greyhound will become desensitised to these actions, rather than thinking “oh no, they’re leaving again!”.

Greyhounds typically live 10-15 years.

It’s normal and healthy for your greyhound to spend most of their day sleeping. They’re built for short bursts of activity, so even 5-10 minutes of zoomies or 20-30 minutes of walking can tire them out for hours. 16+ hours of sleep per day is expected for a greyhound!

On top of this, dogs are crepuscular animals, which means they are most active at dawn and dusk and spend most of the daytime resting.

Greyhounds can be fed once or twice a day, but twice a day is definitely preferable. Some may even eat three times a day! This is for a few reasons:

• Greyhounds are a deep-chested breed, which makes them prone to bloat (GDV). Smaller meals reduce risk and in general ease digestion.
• Routine: many ex-racing greyhounds are accustomed to two meals a day as part of their kennel diet.

Ultimately you should follow the feeding routine that works best for your dog. The most important thing is to never let your greyhound exercise for ~60 minutes before or after eating, to prevent bloat risk.

There is no specific type or brand of food that is best for greyhounds. Obviously it’s best to go for high quality dog food free from additives, flavourings and preservatives, whether that’s dry or wet food. All About Dog Food is great for comparing dog food and finding the right choice for your hound.

When you first adopt a greyhound, it can be best to keep them on the same food that they are used to. Many rehoming/rescue centres will supply you with a bag of their existing food. This helps to ease the transition as they decompress in their new home. Once your greyhound is settled, you can begin experimenting with other foods and figure out what works best for them!

It’s uncommon for greyhounds to sit, but not impossible. Due to their anatomy, many greyhounds find it uncomfortable to sit, especially for long periods. However, some will do so quite happily and can be trained to sit just the same as any other dog.

Our greyhound rarely sits, and when he does, it’s typically because he’s anxious about something! So we learned early on that he is capable, but it’s not something we’ve trained on command.

Greyhounds can experience anxiety in the same way as any other dog, but they are not known for being an “anxious” breed. They can be sensitive, and some may struggle in the early days of adoption as they transition from structured kennel life to a home environment. But typically they will grow in confidence as they settle in and get comfortable.

Some common issues that you can expect to see in greyhounds, especially newly adopted, include:

• Freezing on walks
• Sleep startle
• Separation distress
• Reactivity (particularly to other dogs, as they may be unfamiliar with other dog breeds)
• High prey drive towards small furry animals (not technically a behavioural issue, but often classed as such)
• Stress-related behaviours in the early days of adoption, such as panting, pacing, hyper-vigilance, licking, destructiveness, toileting inside…

It’s important to keep in mind that many greyhounds will demonstrate one or two behaviours from the above list, but none of the others. For example, our greyhound has had significant issues with freezing on walks and a very high prey drive, but around the home he was a dream dog from day one: no destructiveness, no accidents, no separation distress. He’s also never been “reactive” to other dogs - he typically only pays attention to the ones he wants to chase!

Meanwhile, another greyhound might be easy to walk and be very well-socialised with other dog breeds, but will struggle with being left alone in the house.

Don’t let the possibility of certain behaviours put you off - a good adoption group will match you to the right hound and guide you through the challenges.

Greyhound’s unique anatomy and physiology mean that they are more prone than other to certain health conditions, such as:

• Dental issues: One study suggested that 39% of greyhounds suffer from dental problems, a higher percentage than any other dog breed.
• Bloat (GDV): As a deep-chested breed, greyhounds are more prone to bloat, a condition where the stomach twists and fills with gas.
• Arthritis: Especially in the case of ex-racers, due to wear and tear of the joints over time.
• Corns: Hard growths in the paw pad that can cause discomfort and limping.
• Osteosarcoma: Also known as bone cancer.

While these conditions sound scary, it’s important to note that there are many proactive, preventative measures that owners can take, often at zero cost. For example, dental issues in greyhounds can be mitigated with regular teeth brushing; bloat risk can be reduced with smaller portions and limited exercise before/after feeding; joint supplements can stave off arthritis; corns can be prevented by keeping your hound’s nails trimmed and regularly moisturising paw pads.

You’ll often see people suggesting that greyhounds are hard to train, but this is not the case. Many simply need a different approach to other dog breeds. While many dogs are desperate to please their owners, greyhounds can be more aloof and independent - this is not a flaw, but a deliberate breed trait. Their ability to think independently and problem solve is part of what makes them strong racers and hunters.

We’ve found that our greyhound is a quick learner, but it’s very much on his terms! For example, he can learn a new command in the space of an hour or two, but his consistency is questionable when there is something better on offer. For example, calling him to come outside for his final toilet of the night can be a tough sell when it’s cold outside and he’s already cosy on the sofa!

Things get trickier when it comes to high prey drive hounds. The main thing is to figure out what motivates your greyhound. For many, treats are great, but you’ll need something really good to compete with spotting a rabbit on a walk! But even the highest value treats won’t cut it for some in these situations, which is where breed-specific methods such as Predation Substitute Training come into play.

In a nutshell, greyhounds are not inherently hard to train. But some may require more creative approaches and a deeper bond to form before they choose to consistently engage with you.

Many “traditional” enrichment methods apply to greyhounds, along with breed-specific ideas that appeal to their sighthound instincts. Some examples include:

• Frozen kongs and lick mats: Fill toys with wet food, broth or yoghurt, then freeze. A great idea for summer especially.
• Snuffle mats: Get them sniffing for hidden treats to “hunt” for their food. We have this snuffle ball for our greyhound which he loves. You can also scatter treats in the garden for them to find.
• Scent work: While greyhounds aren’t known for their sense of smell, scent work is still a great way for them to work their brain.
• “Enripment”: Give them cardboard boxes, empty toilet rolls and other cardboard waste to rip up (appeals to the “dissect” phase of the prey drive sequence)
• Tracking/stalking games: Move treats or toys in front of your hound and get them to follow with their eyes, rewarding them if they calmly watch (appeals to the “stalk” phase of the prey drive sequence)

Most greyhounds are happy with two walks a day, each lasting at least 20 minutes. However, some will want more, some will be ok with less. Tailor your routine to your dog’s individual health and preferences.

Greyhounds who suddenly stop walking may be experiencing the infamous “greyhound freeze”. This is common in the early days of adoption, when greyhounds become overwhelmed while out and about. In these cases, it’s important to have patience - your greyhound is not being disobedient, they are nervous and need some time to process their surroundings. If it happens repeatedly, consider walking them in quieter places/at quieter times, while their confidence builds.

Greyhounds can also stop walking for other reasons. For example, our hound will often stop in his tracks if he sees/smells something nearby that he’s interested in. There have been many times that he’s planted his feet down, sniffing the air, and we’ve wondered what’s going on…then a cat comes round the corner and it all makes sense!

Some greyhounds are capable of long walks, or even hikes. While they are built for speed rather than endurance, their stamina can be built up over time. Hamish the greyhound on Instagram has even hiked Snowden!

Remember to take things easy for the first few weeks after adopting your greyhound. Don’t attempt any major hikes while they’re still decompressing, and pay attention to their comfort levels during walks. It may take a while before they are happy going for long distance adventures!

Many greyhounds are good on lead, often cited as being great dogs for elderly people due to their gentle nature and ambling pace.

However, things can change rapidly if you see a cat, rabbit or similar small furry while out and about: your gentle giant may lunge unexpectedly if their prey drive kicks in! It’s important to hold on tight and always be aware of your surroundings, especially during the first few months after adoption, when you are still getting to know your hound.

Of course, there are greyhounds who are generally more reactive or excitable than others when walking. While greyhounds don’t typically pull on lead, some will, but this can be trained as with any dog.

There is no law which stops you from letting your greyhound off-lead in public in the UK, but many people will recommend against it. Ex-racers typically have high prey drive and selective recall, which can be a recipe for disaster if you let them off in an area with any small furries running about. They are also capable of covering a large distance in a very short space of time, which can be dangerous if you let them off in an un-enclosed space. If your greyhound is unexpectedly spooked, they may take off and end up miles away before you know it.

It’s strongly recommended to keep your greyhound on a lead in shared public spaces, unless you are extremely confident in their recall and behaviour around other people, animals and wildlife. If you do let them off, consider sticking to enclosed spaces and fitting them with a GPS tracker.

Alternatively, remember that there are some great secure, enclosed fields in the UK, which you can hire out for up to an hour for just you and your hound(s). These allow you to let them off-lead safely.

Please note that laws and guidance will vary in countries outside of the UK.

There is no legal obligation for owners to muzzle their greyhounds in the UK, however it is recommended during the first few weeks or months after adoption while you are getting to know your hound. Until you understand their prey drive, and are confident handling them on walks (especially if they tend to lunge/pull), a muzzle is an invaluable tool for keeping everyone safe.

The great news is that greyhounds are already trained to wear muzzles while racing, so they are perfectly happy to be muzzled.

Some greyhounds will always need to wear a muzzle, and that’s ok - as long as they are happy and comfortable!

Greyhounds are not typically aggressive towards other dogs, though they may be unsure around other breeds, due to their lack of socialisation. It’s important to manage introductions carefully, in the early days especially, as your greyhound will likely not be keen on a very excitable strange dog invading their space!

Greyhounds can have high prey drive, however this is different to aggression. Prey drive is a natural, genetically hardwired instinct to chase and capture prey. Sometimes this instinct may kick in when your greyhound sees a small fluffy dog, especially if it’s running about in the distance. This is not aggression, but it can be dangerous if you do not have control over your greyhound.

Many greyhound owners comment that other dogs don’t seem to like their greyhound, noting that other dogs will bark or snap when walking past. There is no established reasoning for this, but commonly suggested reasons include:

• Greyhounds have a tendency to stare, which can come across as confrontational and make other dogs uncomfortable. I’ve certainly noticed this with our hound - when he’s curious, he can stop and stare at dogs and people.
• Greyhounds are tall and kind of weird looking, to put it bluntly. They’re skinny and spindly and some dogs may not be used to their unusual body type.
• Subtle body language: Greyhounds are raised with other greyhounds (in the case of ex-racers), therefore they don’t have experience socialising with other dog breeds. This means they often lack the communication skills needed for other dogs, at least in the early days.

I’ve noticed that small dogs are often not fans of our large, black greyhound. They will frequently run and bark at him, even when he is minding his own business. Luckily, the ones we see often on walks do seem to have gotten used to him over time!